Mita Kapur

She brings with her a fusion of tradition and modernity. The glint of gota, waves of leheriya, undulating swirls of diaphanous chiffons and gorgeous georgettes-are all an integral part of Puja Aryas life. As a fashion designer, Pujas work symbolizes the simplicity of craft wedded to contemporary trends. This new fashion prodigy is now all set to showcase her collection in the Bridal Asia, 2005. Petite but power-packed, Puja pursues her passion for all that is pretty, pure and printed. A NIFT (National Institute of Fashion Technology) graduate, Puja patched up the prized Charles Wallace scholarship from the British Council and another from the Nottingham Trent University to complete her Degree. Nottingham and NIFT gave a perfect blend of technical training and global exposure to help her get into the weft and the warp of the fashion industry. "I was five years senior to my batch mates at NIFT, joining late due to personal upheavals in life. They were young and fresh, and I was fraught with inhibitions about my creative abilities and the competition over there. I had to prove myself. It was a challenge, especially when I was doing my final collection in Nottingham. With no in-depth experience in structured garments and patterning, not being too Indian and yet create an international collection was a daunting task," says Puja. However, being the only one chosen to display her work at the Graduate Fashion Week in England, the lady did prove herself.
 Borrowing a paltry sum of Rs 8000 from her father, Puja started with a small collection for the NIFT shop. Ogaan and Ffolio picked up her work and now Amethyst, Mogra, Kimaya, Aura and Marichika are her regulars. " To establish a label which does not figure anywhere on the fashion latitudes of the country and to sell my creations without any Page 3 hype and media attention was and is an on going struggle," says Puja.
 "To survive as a single woman in the fashion industry requires tremendous mental and physical stamina. But my being a woman hasnt got in the way of my achievements. I have not been weakened by my sexuality and have never compromised on my dignity as an individual," adds Puja, who has overcome hurdles with an equanimity that befuddles many.
Three years at an Export House and a training stint at a Print Design Workshop in Philedelphia, USA, gave Puja the required cache of arms to experiment with her faith in the traditional textiles and rapid block printing. "I design my own blocks. They are unique, largely floral, modern or geometrical. Also, I use placement printing and mixed printing on a single garment," says Puja.
Kalidaar ghaghras in silk and chiffons in flaming oranges, fiery reds, hot pinks with gold khadi printing, are the item numbers on Pujas screen for Bridal Asia. " All my saris are in two colours, the body has two prints and the pallu also has a different print. When you wrap the sari around, you catch glimpses of the inner print behind the outer print," explains Puja.The designer feels that this is the apt way to define an Indian woman and the vastness of her personality. Pujas couture gives the entire family a means to pamper themselves. "There are so many occasions around an Indian wedding for which ensembles are needed. My outfits are designed keeping the family in mind."
 Heavy in gold print, the surface ornamentation is extended by the use of gota patti in abstract and modern designs. Brocade, metallic sequins and coloured glass are present in a stylised, elegant manner making out a definitive image - that of a lady who knows what she likes to wear and carries herself with a lot of grace. There are clients who wear Pujas embellished T-shirts with saris.
  The city of Jaipur is an inspiration to this young designer who says, "The locals dressed in psychedelic colours, the camels on the streets and the rush of modernity - keep my creative pulse working," says Puja. Her collection is aimed at the Generation Bride who is smart, independent and willing to experiment. Her designs rarely cost more than Rs 8,000, as she wants the fashion conscious women to make the most out of her designing potential.
 Forthright and unassuming, Puja has always shown a brave face to the travails of life. "I draw my strength from my mother whose sense of purpose in life has grown with her age. I have never drawn boundaries for myself with suffocating dictums like I must be famous by 40. I believe that I will get what I want when the time is right," says Puja.